A Witch's Guide to Halloween in New Orleans
When it comes to Halloween, there are two undeniably iconic American cities in which to get your spook on: Salem (of course!) and New Orleans, Louisiana. While Salem occupies its well-deserved spot on the dark tourism to-do list for its connection to the infamous witch trials of the late 1600s, New Orleans has earned its reputation as a Halloween hot spot for a myriad of reasons. Maybe you’ve been drawn to the city thanks to its representation in the media, from Anne Rice’s Mayfair Witches and Vampire Chronicles (now a hit series on AMC!) to the works of Poppy Z Brite and, yes, American Horror Story: Coven. Or maybe you’re old enough to remember the 90s, when the French Quarter was practically a place of pilgrimage for goths who would congregate in dive bars like the (sadly no longer existent) Whirling Dervish. Or maybe you’re a history and parapsychology buff, familiar with New Orleans’ reputation as the most haunted city in America, its connection to voodoo (vodou), and its host of larger than life characters: Marie Laveau, Delphine LaLaurie, the Comte Saint Germain, and more.
Halloween decorations in the French Quarter, by Jake Cvunningham
Whatever draws you here, if you’re in New Orleans for Halloween there’s no shortage of things to see and do. But if you want to avoid the tourist traps and experience magical New Orleans like the local witches do, read on! The city has a thriving spiritual and occult community, and it’s easy to overlook some of the best spots if you’re not in the know. This is by no means a comprehensive list, but having lived and worked as a professional witch and psychic in New Orleans for the past decade, these are the things I consider must-sees and must-dos.
SPIRITUAL SHOPS & BOTANICAS
There are so many witchy shops in New Orleans that you almost can’t walk a block in the French Quarter without encountering one. While many of these spots are fun to peek inside, I’m going to be real with you: a lot of them are overpriced, inauthentic, and packed to the gills with drunk, wide-eyed tourists—the kind who think tarot cards are possessed by the devil and that satan is trying to telepathically communicate with us via the new Hocus Pocus movie. There are only a few stores I recommend without reservation to the serious practitioner or seeker. They are as follows.
1224 Decatur St, French Quarter
The entryway to Crescent City Conjure, via the CCC Instagram
Crescent City Conjure is my go-to recommendation for those who are seriously interested in hoodoo and conjure. Owner and operator Sen Elias has over 20 years experience providing service to his community, and the shop not only offers supplies and spiritual items but also readings, consultations, and guidance from experienced workers. The shop has a fantastic selection of products ritually prepared in store, including oils, spiritual baths, gris-gris, and more. The shop also hosts products from other local community members, including teas by the phenomenal faerie tea-crafter herself, Queenly Conjure. An absolute must visit for folks interested in the magic that runs deep into the roots and veins of New Orleans.
1212 North Rampart St, French Quarter
Owned and operated by Fatima Mbodj, creator of the New Orleans Oracle Deck, Path of Awakenings is a metaphysical boutique offering a diversity of products, from candles to hand-blended oils and bath products, crystals and a wide variety of tarot and oracle decks. Fatima is also a well-regarded psychic, and readings are available at the shop with either Fatima herself, or one of her highly-skilled staff members. Her St. Michael oil blend is one of my very favorites!
2372 St. Claude Ave (inside the Healing Center)
Located a little outside the French Quarter (so you’ll have to drive or Uber), the New Orleans Healing Center is a fabulous space that houses a food co-op, florist, radio station, and lots of helpful resources and services for locals. It also houses Mambo Sallie Ann Glassman’s Island of Salvation Botanica, a spiritual and metaphysical store that focuses on Vodou and West African diaspora traditions, as well as folk art from local and imported artists. Though the shop is small, it’s jam-packed with candles, herbs, incense, oils, books, art, and anything else your heart could possibly desire. Glassman has been practicing Vodou since 1977, and was initiated into the tradition in 1995, in Haiti. In addition to running the botanica, Glassman hosts various community rituals throughout the year, including a head washing ceremony on St. John’s Eve and an annual Hurricane Turning Ceremony.
Botanica Macumba / The New Orleans Chapel of Santissima Muerte
3154 St. Claude Ave
A little further up the road, past the Healing Center, Botanica Macumba offers a wonderful, curated selection of occult wares for the discerning practitioner. Candles, statues, and jewelry are available, and staff are always happy to help with spiritual inquiries. The botanica specializes in Quimbanda, and is also the home of the New Orleans Chapel of Santissima Muerte. Devotees are welcome to visit and pray at the altar, and the shop hosts chapel services as well as a range of other occult discussions and events. Keep an eye on their Facebook page for more information.
3201 Toulouse St, Mid City
Interior of Rosalie, by River Beats Magazine (from their article about the shop).
If you’re looking for dried herbs, teas, herbal medicines, tinctures, and everything green-witchy and naturopathic, Rosalie is the store for you. They have what I believe to be the widest range of herbs in the city, along with a well-curated selection of books, tarot and oracle decks, and locally made bath and body products. Perfect for stocking up on your supplies, or having a chat with one of the staff herbalists - everyone who works at Rosalie is incredibly knowledgable and kind, and will be more than happy to chat about any projects you’re working on or the various benefits (metaphysical or medicinal) of the products they sell. Rosalie is located a short drive from the French Quarter, so you’ll want to Uber there, but it’s close by to beautiful Bayou St. John and Parkway Bakery - a great spot to grab a po-boy for lunch. Make a day of it!
400C South Broad St, Mid City
There is no other place in the city, as far as I’m concerned, with such a phenomenal selection of candles. If you’re looking for 7-day candles, saint candles, soaps, floor washes, and statues, this is the spot for you. San Simon is named after a Latin American folk saint, also known as Maximon, who (like Santa Muerte) is a result of syncretism between Indigenous Mayan beliefs and Catholicism. A trickster spirit, San Simon is known as a protector of women, and venerated throughout Guatemala, Mexico, and now parts of the United States as a powerful spiritual intercessor. San Simon is owned and operated by sisters Alejandra and Ana, and the majority of their stock is imported from Mexico. Looking for a huge selection of Santa Muerte candles? This is the place for you. Run Devil Run, Anima Sola, Gato Negro, and hex removal ritual candles? They’ve got you covered. Botanica San Simon is a predominantly Spanish-speaking store, and while you’ll be very welcome and get by fine without speaking the language, it’s best to take someone with you if you have a ton of questions.
CRYSTALS & ROCKS
There are no shortage of crystal stores in the French Quarter these days, but only a few are worthwhile in terms of selection, price, and quality.
The French Quarter Gem and Lapidary
527 St. Philip St, French Quarter
Every square inch of this store is packed to the gills with crystals, rocks, tumbled stones, jewelry, knick knacks, and a robust selection of taxidermied insects. The FQ G&L is a for real treasure trove, boasting a good selection of standard crystals in varying sizes and cuts, and a nice range of more unusual pieces as well. There’s also a shop cat, if you’re into that sort of thing (I am). Part of what keeps me going back to the lapidary are their prices: they are very, very reasonable, especially in comparison to the numerous other smaller shops that have popped up in the quarter over the past few years. The shop can get crowded, and if you have a ton of questions and are looking for personal attention this may not be the spot for you, but it’s absolutely worth checking out for the rock-hounds among you.
306 Chartres St, French Quarter
From Louisiana Travel dot com.
Not too far from the lapidary, Earth Odyssey offers a great selection of raw and tumbled rocks, as well as books, tarot and oracle decks, jewelry, incense, and other spiritual accoutrements. This is a store with a definite 90s-new-age vibe: lots of chakra imagery and nods to Eastern mysticism, with books running the gamut from shamanic practice to ufology. Mostly, I go for the rocks and jewelry - but it’s always fun to see what else they have in stock. The vibe here is a little calmer and more friendly, so if you have questions, this is the rock shop for you. They generally have several readers on staff, too, though it’s best to call ahead and book during busy times.
ODDITIES, TAXIDERMY, & EPHEMERA
Alright, it’s not strictly occult, but I’ve never met a witch who didn’t love some fucking taxidermy. There are a ton of shops in the quarter serving the needs of the more eccentric, quirky shopper, but here are my favorites.
822 Chartres St, French Quarter
I bought a taxidermied arctic fox here during the pandemic, with my stimulus money (that’s what it was for, right?) and I think that tells you just about all you need to know. But suffice to say Dark Matter has become one of my favorite haunts, stuffed full of oddities, local art, antiques, and weird little trinkets - everything you need to craft your own cabinet of curiosities. There’s a great selection of teas, scented candles with dark and mysterious themes, and a mugwort incense that I am completely obsessed with. And yes, of course, plenty of taxidermy - both big and small pieces, web specimens, wall mounts, and everything in between. The owners, Josh and Chrystal, also have their own jewelry line which they sell in store and online, via their Etsy. Make sure to scope out the work of local artist Kate Lacour, who in addition to being a phenomenal illustrator is the person who taxidermied my afore-mentioned arctic fox. This is an absolutely unmissable stop for lovers of the dark and unusual.
1209 Decatur St, French Quarter
Not too far from Dark Matter, Secondline Arts & Antiques is a deceptively-sized antiques mall located on grimy-yet-funky lower Decatur street. From the outside it looks like just another small shop full of sundries, but walk in and you’ll see a warehouse that stretches out in all directions, stuffed with vintage clothes, local art, postcards, antiques, paper ephemera, framed butterflies and insects, and everything else you might hope to find in a magical thrift shop. There’s also a great outdoor area stuffed with garden decorations, iron work, lawn flamingos - you get the picture. Grab a drink at nearby Aunt Tiki (if you’re feeling adventurous and enjoy a good dive bar) or Cane & Table (if you’re feeling fancy and enjoy a well-balanced cocktail). Remember, you can take your drinks to go, so grab a beverage and get lost for a bit inside the labyrinthine entrails of Secondline.
709 St. Ann St, French Quarter
We have Anne Rice to thank for New Orleans’ reputation as a vampire city, and with AMC’s new Interview with a Vampire series airing throughout October, this year is likely to be a big one for bloodsucking tourism. Of course, New Orleans has plenty of other connections to the creatures of the night, and if you’re curious about such things, Boutique du Vampyre should be your first stop. The owner, Marita Woywod Crandle, has been in business for centuries though the shop only opened for mortals in 2003. She quite literally wrote the book on New Orleans vampires, and you can pick up a signed copy in store, along with a hand-picked selection of local art, crafts, jewelry, oddities, and vampire-themed knick knacks. One of the coolest items in the shop (made in store by the vampire assistants), are the vampire fortune candles, which melt down to reveal keepsakes that can divine your future. The store occasionally offers tarot readings, but if nobody is available, you could always ask St. Germain to read your fortune. If you’re planning ahead, why not book a Vampire Adventure? There are more secrets in store for those who linger in the shop and for whom the vampire assistants take a shine - so don’t be in too much of a rush to leave! Let’s just say if you’re looking for some magic potions, Boutique du Vampyre may hold the key.
TATTOOS & TATTOO ARTISTS
610 Frenchmen St
Located on the outskirts of the French Quarter, Electric Ladyland is a New Orleans institution. There’s even a Vice documentary on Annette La Rue, the artist who put Electric Ladyland on the map (though she now works out of Chesapeake, Virginia). Electric Ladyland has a wide variety of artists to choose from, with a host of different styles. Last I checked they happily take walk-ins, and there’s a great selection of flash to choose from. For my money, though, you’ll want to hit up Erica Flannes, a phenomenally talented artist with a diverse portfolio, and a strong sense of the spiritual. In addition to being an artist and tattooer, Erica is an energy worker, and one of the kindest, most sensitive souls I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting. A wonderful person to trust with your body and your energy field. Go hit her up for some ink!
By Appointment Only
From the Endless Night instagram.
If you’re planning ahead and looking to get some world-class ink, in a setting which can only be described as spiritually transcendental, you’ll want to keep an eye on the Endless Night instagram for appointment openings. Owner Jamie Draven opens the shop to a rotating cast of uniquely talented artists, and the shop also plays host to spiritual and community events throughout the year (most recently a Full Moon ceremony with LaReina of Queenly Conjure). The shop also regularly runs all-proceeds flash events (by appointment), with money donated to local charities and orgs. If you can’t make it this time around, keep it on your list for your next trip!
BARS & RESTAURANTS
Personally, I’m no longer a drinker, but fortunately (maybe?) for y’all, I got a good decade under my belt drinking in this city, and can recommend some good spots where the vibe is witchy and the liquor is strong. This is by no means a comprehensive list, as the number of bars in New Orleans far exceeds the number of hours in my day, and I’d miss my deadline if I tried to tell you even 1/4 of my absolute favorite spots. But here’s a small smattering that might appeal to the spooky crowd.
4905 Freret St, Uptown
via The Daily Beast.
They filmed a few scenes of American Horror Story: Coven, here, if that’s your jam - but whether you’re a fan of Ryan Murphy’s cheesy anthology show or not, Cure is a must-see (must-drink?) for cocktail enthusiasts. They’ve won a couple of James Beard awards, and have a dizzying selection of craft cocktails, both classic and seasonal/unique to the menu. Excellent small plates, and a great happy hour for the budget-conscious traveler. The vibe is cabinet of curiosities meets hipster warehouse apartment, and the clientele varies from lawyer-types to average weirdos/local goths looking to splurge a bit. If I still drank, this is where I would drink. 10/10.
820 North Rampart St, French Quarter
On the outskirts of the French Quarter, Bar Tonique feels like a cross between a candle-lit cave, a dive bar, and a fancy cocktail establishment, probably because it is all of those things. They do weekly classic cocktail drink specials for $6, and have a short but robust cocktail menu as well as beers, wine, and (vitally, for my fellow sober witches), a temperance menu. While their non-alcoholic options aren’t super extensive, it beats the typical choice of coke or sprite. Their phosphate sodas are great, but if you’re feeling a bit decadent, you can’t go past a strawberry cream soda. Delicious!
1026 St. Louis St, French Quarter
The brainchild of New Orleans cocktail legend Chris Hannah, Jewel of the South is nestled inside a former creole cottage, making the surroundings both cozy and elegant - and quintessentially New Orleans. The drinks are a love song to the history of cocktails in New Orleans, and the food is second to none. On the spendier side, but worth the splurge.
801 Royal St, French Quarter
Located next door to Boutique du Vampyre, the Vampire Cafe is a themed restaurant with real bite. This is not your grandma’s themed restaurant: forget soggy fries and stodgy, basic burgers - the Cafe’s menu (which features breakfast, weekend brunch, and a regular menu) includes southern staples like shrimp and grits and gumbo, as well as delectable dishes such as salmon tartare and baked brie. There are even vegetarian options for those who don’t want to go full Vlad. There’s a great selection of beers on tap, as well as cocktails and wine, and the cafe offers a rotating calendar of events including regular high teas, complete with tea leaf readings. In town for Halloween itself? Check out the Mad Monster Mash hosted at the Vampyre Cafe’s hidden location, Potions Speakeasy.
DIVES & LATE-NIGHT SPOTS
New Orleans may not be the city that never sleeps, but it’s certainly the city that parties til it passes out. If you’re looking for a late-night spot to grab a drink and mingle with locals, these are my recommendations.
718 North Rampart St, French Quarter
Flanagan’s Pub was a New Orleans institution for goths, punks, weirdos, and service industry folks - but alas, it ain’t dere no more. The owners opened up the Voodoo Lounge a few years back, capturing some of the same magic and uniquely divey ambiance that made Flanagan’s such a welcome stop for local weirdos (kind of like a goth Cheers). Beer, wine, and mixed drinks available, as well as hurricanes from one of those coolers with the tap that you used to get kool-aid out of at summer camp. Tour company French Quarter Phantoms has its box office inside the bar, and so it can get pretty crowded just before tours are due to leave (but hey, two for one hurricanes!) You’ll meet some fascinating folks here, and the vibe is solid. Do yourself a favor.
1123 Decatur St, French Quarter
There are a ton of bars on Lower Decatur that cater to a more alternative crowd, but The Abbey stands out as a spot that is somehow both grimy and welcoming. Great prices, decent jukebox, a good place to people watch or get chatting to locals of the more punk/goth persuasion.
1135 Decatur St, New Orleans
Locals like to joke that 1135 Decatur is cursed to always return to its goth roots. The site was once host to iconic New Orleans goth club The Whirling Dervish, and though its been many things over the years (including a lesbian bar called Rubyfruit Jungle), the current vibe is very much in keeping with its reputation as a haven for outcasts, weirdos, metal heads, and punk rockers. Santos is half bar, half music venue, and it’s worth checking out their calendar to see whose playing, if you plan to go. They also do karaoke and are apparently haunted as balls.
2256 St Claude Avenue
Located a little ways out of the French Quarter (uber/drive, don’t walk). Do you like karaoke? If the answer is ‘yes,’ look no further. I saw Kirsten Dunst here once. She was very drunk.
GUIDED & HAUNTED TOURS
There’s no shame in enjoying a bit of true crime and some ghost stories, especially around halloween. There are more tour companies operating in New Orleans now than you can shake a stick at, but here are my favorites. (Please note: guided tours are also the ONLY way you can enjoy St. Louis cemetery).
718 North Rampart St, French Quarter
The box office is located inside The Voodoo Lounge. FQ Phantoms have been in business a long, long ass time, and as a result they really know their shit. Not all tour companies are created equal - it takes skill to keep a group safe while walking at night through the French Quarter, navigating traffic, other tour groups, and all the while telling interesting stories in an entertaining and lively manner. FQ Phantoms knocks it out of the park in that regard - the guides have a real gift for storytelling, and are knowledgeable on the real history behind the legends. LGBT+ friendly, socially conscious (which matters, especially when it comes to the history of a city with a significant link to slavery), and genuinely fun for the whole family. FQP offers a range of tours, including ghost, vampire, cemetery, and day tours to the garden district. Book online here.
NO Secrets prides themselves on their small group sizes, which allows for a more intimate, curated experience. In addition to offering haunted history tours, NO Secrets has some brilliant food and cocktail tours for the kitchen witches amongst you. If you’re looking to explore outside the French Quarter with experienced, professional guides, this is the group for you!
HALLOWEEN EVENTS
Every year there are an exhaustive list of halloween events throughout the city, and once again, I couldn’t hope to cover them all. But here’s a sampling - a starting point for those of you who prefer to schedule your fun.
Vampire, Witch, and Costumed Balls
Since Covid, some of these ticketed events have gone on indefinite hiatus (RIP Witches Ball), but you can reliably count on the annual Endless Night New Orleans Vampire Ball to take place, always at the House of Blues, and typically over three consecutive nights. It is important to note (to me, anyway) that Endless Night is not hosted by locals - Father Sebastiaan, a New York native and elder in the Sanguinarian/’Real Vampire’ community, is the mastermind behind Endless Night, hosting events in Salem, New York, and even as far a field as Paris. The tickets are expensive, and your mileage may vary vis a vis whether its worth the price. It’s typically very crowded, with extremely long waits to get drinks, use the bathroom, etc. However, the costumes are amazing, the stage shows are typically fun (especially if you enjoy burlesque), and it’s a good chance to get a peek into a unique subculture. I’ve been twice, in 2009 and 2021, and can’t say that the night entirely lived up to my expectations (nobody turned me into a vampire - bummer) - but it’s worth seeing if you have the spare cash, certainly.
The official halloween parade of New Orleans rolls tonight, Saturday October 22nd! Fun for the whole family, and a good chance to check out the city’s parade culture outside of Mardi Gras.
4800 Canal St, Mid City
The Haunted Mortuary is the only haunted house within close proximity to the French Quarter. Haunt scariness is perhaps a 6/10, making it appropriate for younger witches, and its located inside a for real former mortuary/greek revival mansion, which is pretty cool (and definitely spooky).
Baton Rouge
You’ll have to rent a car for this one, but for my money, The 13th Gate is the best haunt in the state. The attention to detail here - the sets, the costumes, the caliber of choreography/actor interaction, are second to none. Though the 13th Gate is legitimately scary, even for adults, it isn’t overly reliant on gore or violence, and plenty of folks take their kids. Worth the road trip.
SPOTS TO CHECK OUT ON YOUR OWN
The Skeleton House and other good spots to see decorations
Hop in an Uber and head uptown to see New Orleans’ famous Skeleton House. It’s fun to wander round the garden district as it is, with its uneven sidewalks, live oaks, and historic greek revival mansions, but during halloween we get a chance to see how the other half haunt - and it’s a beautiful, eerie thing!
You can’t go inside, but you can take pictures! BYO chic black outfit and appropriate hat. The Buckner Mansion has a fascinating real life history, and is a beautiful example of New Orleans architecture, even if you’re not an AHS fan.
The Mayfair Witches House (Anne Rice’s former home)
1239 First Street, Garden District
Via the Wall street journal.
Anne’s former home was also the setting for the Mayfair Witches - the house on First and Chestnut is iconic for fans of Anne’s work. Come and pay homage (but remember it’s a private residence, so don’t be a dick).
5100 Pontchartrain Blvd, Metairie
The Rice family tomb is located in Metairie Cemetery. Anne, along with her husband Stan Rice and their daughter Michele (the inspiration for Claudia, who died of leukemia at the age of five) are all interred here. While I don’t encourage obnoxious tourism in active cemeteries, I know how much Anne Rice meant to many of us, and respectful visits to her grave appear to be welcomed by the family.
Witches like nature (or they should, anyway) and New Orleans’ City Park is the best place to connect with the earth for a bit and forget you’re in an urban area. There are areas with more curated walking paths and man-made lakes, as well as the NOMA sculpture garden (which is free), but if you want to really enjoy the beauty of City Park, head to the Harrison Avenue parking lot and head out to explore the overgrown/abandoned golf course. Trails will take you past swamp-esque waterways, where you might spy the occasional alligator, and plenty of herons. A beautiful spot for a walk, and beloved of witches looking for places to do their work. I’ve never felt unsafe in any part of City Park, but if you’re nervous, best to go in pairs or in a group. Technically closed at night. Technically.
This list is already a million years long, and I have most assuredly overlooked and omitted some truly excellent things. But that’s the beauty of New Orleans - once you get your boots on the ground, you’ll find the city is full of surprises, always ready to yield a hidden gem or a delightful synchronicity. Come ready to explore (and ready to be a little bit spontaneous), and you’ll have a truly magical time. And yes, while it’s true you need to be a little cautious here, so long as you take precautions (don’t wear beads or dangle a camera around your neck to advertise yourself as a tourist, don’t engage with panhandlers, Uber or catch a pedicab if you’re venturing outside of the French Quarter or if you’re going to be out late), you should be perfectly fine.
This city has so much to offer, especially once you peel back the veneer and get to the vein that pulses beneath the Bourbon-street-and-drunken-debauchery skin. If you’re visiting this year (or any year!) I hope you have a wonderful time. Happy Samhain!